Garfagnana food : Your guide to eating out in the region
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Pictures of this restaurant (1)Tre Castelli, Gallicano -
Welcome back to the original Tre Castelli management. Workman's lunch at €10 (actually €9 because it is on promotion in June as part of the re-opening) was superb - Risotto of squash and bacon, turkey breast in a rich lemon sauce with French beans, wine, water and coffee. - TimA

Placeholder only, because there are no pictures of this restaurant (0)Cappuccetto Rosso, Borgo a Mozzano -
Opened on 5 July 2014, having been near Modena for the previous 7 years. Well regarded on trip advisor in the previous location. Yet to try it myself since the change of ownership. Used to be Al Cantuccio - TimA

Pictures of this restaurant (1)Ristorante Al Cantuccio [CLOSED], Turritecava -
This establishment has now closed and been taken over by Ristorante Cappuccetto Rosso - TimA

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Pasticceria Bini, Diecimo -
Very modern looking, but nevertheless excellent, coffee bar and pasticceria. Famous for its biscotti. - TimA

Pictures of this restaurant (1)Il Rifugio, Campocatino -
We tried this place many years ago and it was warm and welcoming; and the food excellent as far as I recall. We are going to explore again shortly to see if it is still as good... - TimA

Placeholder only, because there are no pictures of this restaurant (0)Ristorante da Beppe, Coreglia Antelminelli -
It has been years since we visited this out of the way establishment. Elsewhere the reviews are mixed. I remember a warm welcome and some great mushrooms - TimA

Pictures of this restaurant (1)Alpino, Barga -
Hard to believe that we pass this place on a daily basis but have never before ventured in. Some good reviews on trip advisor however tempted us in last week. It is a strange place to be sure: something of a time shift. If you want to see how Northern Tuscany was 30-40 years ago, this is THE place to go. Nothing has changed from other establishments I remember of that period. That said, the food etc of that time was great and so it is in Alpino. Service ever so friendly. - TimA

Placeholder only, because there are no pictures of this restaurant (0)La Taverna di Emma, Pisa -
What a find (thanks to TripAdvisor). We had a sumptuous prompt one course feast here today and were delighted. Friendly service, chef came round to say hello, brilliant assortment of bread, clear that passion went into the cooking. Air-conditioned! And very reasonable. Worth the extra 20 metre walk from the tourist traps next to the leaning tower. Did not have wine so cannot comment. - TimA

Pictures of this restaurant (1)La Lanterna di Mario, Lido di Camaiore -
Returned for lunch to this haunt of a good many years ago as we were passing that way this week. Almost a time warp: nothing had changed. I cannot say we tested the current offer very hard, because we only had a plate of pasta, but that was good and the people at the table next to us seemed to be tucking in with gusto (and not for the first time, I think). - TimA

Placeholder only, because there are no pictures of this restaurant (0)Al Barchetto, Turritecava -
Great value Sunday lunch. Four of us ate really well for 80 euros. An antipasto misto and fried pasta with stracciata was more than enough for four and delicious. For mains we had the fillet of beef with lardo, spag bol, fritto misto and tagliata - all excellent and large portions. Rounded off with coffees, wine and water we all had a thoroughly good time. And all the while a peaceful view of the lake under the awning but 'fuori'. Service was attentive but not intrusive. No wonder the place was heaving. - BargaTim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Terrazza, Borgo a Mozzano -
How many times must we have passed this place without a second glance. Not quite true; we did notice the car-park full of trucks at lunch-times. So we gave it a try this week. It was full of workers for the `menu di lavoro` at 12 euros. If that doesn't deter you, then you will be very pleasantly surprised by the selection available, the quality of the food and the friendly service, oh and the air-conditioning (it was 35 outside). The carpaccio di manzo con rucola e parmigiana was brilliant. Linen napkins a decent house white (included in the 12 euros) all made us plan for a definite return visit. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Cantina, Ghivizzano -
The restaurant has been sold. It is not known at this point what the new owners` intentions are. Let me know if you find out. - Admin

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Al Vecchio Tino, Casola in Lunigiana -
What a great find. Not at all where we expected (it is in the Fraz. di Fivizzano, not Fivizzano itself which is 16 kms away). Having found it, the welcome was fabulously warm and the setting on a sunny spring day overlooking the valley peaceful and breathtaking all at the same time. Then the food: bellissimo. Antipasto della casa (half portion) would have served two (almost). Zuppa di canellini e cozze (mussels) was brilliant (and no shells - whoopee); Tagliata with mushrooms (half portion again plenty) was succulent and `melt in the mouth`. In place of salmon trout, the salmerino (brook trout) with carciofi and mushrooms had been braised in a bag and was a brilliant combination of flavours. House wines were not so great: drinkable, but next time we would probably select from a good wine list. 2.5 courses for two, water, coffee, wine, etc €60. Pretty good value and we were offered digestivi on the house. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Cantina, Ghivizzano -
Such is the popularity now of the "Menu di Lavoro" here that when we arrived as 1:15 on Friday last week, we and a few others had to wait to be seated. But it was worth the wait. Great zuppa di farro (a local delicacy and one of my favourites) and then delicious seppia (cuttlefish) with pisellini. Rounded off with a wine, water and a correto sambuca and I was very pleased to pay my €10 all inclusive. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Fratelli Lucchesi, Barga -
It is with great sadness that I report the sudden death on Monday night of Fabio Lucchesi, ever-present barister and joint proprietor of this wonderful bar and pasticceria. He will be very dearly missed by so many. Our condolences to his family and friends. - Admin

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Trattoria da Riccardo, Barga -
Unlike many other restaurants along the Serchio valley that offer the €10.00 'menu di lavoro' at lunch-time (not Sunday), Riccardos generally has few workmen taking up the offer. In any event the set lunch is exceptional value for money and well worth a visit. Two courses, a carafe of house wine, water, coffee, IVA all included. On the days that they serve it, Zuppa di farro is a firm favourite of mine. - TimA

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Verdeluna, Barga -
Second visit confirmed the previous experience, though this time there were three other diners sharing the small dining room with us. The set price menu price had increased (again) to €28 - a sign of popularity perhaps or the rise in global food prices. Everything was delicious. The service gracious and attentive. This time we did try the ice cream and chestnut purée and it was divine. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)L`Altana, Barga -
Oh Dio, che cena piacevole. Antipasto di prosciutto e crostini caldo era squisito. Il migliore per lontano. Filetto di maiale di pepe verde era una gioia completa, poiché era il sformato di cavolfiore. Ossobuco and pisellini erano magnifico. Vino della casa, etc tutto €48. - BargaDiner

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Gatta, Careggine -
Today we made the excursion to 1000+ meters. The spectacular views in this area are worth it alone. La Gatta was not hard to find. TomTom did not have all the roads but once we were close there were good signs. It is a cavernous place; decor a bit functional. However, the welcome was warm and helpful. The table well set out and cloth napkins (always a good sign). The menu is short, all meat, no fish, and inexpensive. There may be a workman's lunch/menu turistico, but we were not offered it. Ravioli caserecci alla primavera was interesting - standard home made and delicious spinach and ricotta ravioli with a slightly strange sauce of strong herbs and what tasted like blanched tomatoes - unusual to me, but not unpleasant. Antipasto misto della Gatta was a bit bready, nice salami, but slightly dry proscutto. Tagliata di manzo was brilliant and for €7 was exceptional value for money. Grigiliata mista was good and wholesome. Peperoni al forno as a cotorno was delicious. Coffees, water and wine made a bill of €40 for two. Good, but not exceptional, value. Worth a second visit. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (1)Cantine Bernadini, Lucca -
Once we had found the unobtrusive entrance, we were wowed by the decor and atmosphere. The staff were very attentive and knew their products really well. The carciofi e ricotta tortelli in ragu di anatra e brunoise di verdure were very delicate, though a little on the tepid side. Petali di baccala su crema di cavolo fiore was delicious. Anatra in sesame crust was quite fine, but the whole onion in its skin, though very tasty, was a bit odd. Baccala con pomodoro e porri was perfectly cooked. A Luchese wine for 8 Euros rounded it off nicely. 63 Euros complete for two. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Verdeluna, Barga -
After years of travelling away from Barga for good food, recently, the centre of town has been transformed and Verdeluna is certainly part of that transformation. Everything was wonderfully cooked - polpette di sarde beautifully subtle, warm seafood salad with a Caesar sauce packed with flavours, seafood and vegetariana lasagna were so refined and delicate (the vegetarian the biggest hit), and then scaloppine di pollo and swordfish steak in a divine emulsion of olive oil, lemon and oregano. There was pudding included in the set 24 euros but we resisted. The white wine also included was light and crisp. Be ready for the small dining room, but it is tastefully done and very welcoming. Definitely will be a favourite for the future. Booking ahead is a must. They only open mid-week if you book; so turning up on spec is high risk. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Il Flamingo, Gallicano -
Had the menu turistico today - two courses, vegetable, wine, water and coffee for 10 Euros a head. Brilliant. Hard to know how they manage to make a profit. Fusilli al chingiale was near perfect. Pork fillet delicious; Polpette also delicious. Understandably the place was teeming with people - workers, travellers, locals, etc. Now I understand why they provide so much parking! Service very efficient. Nice airy dining room. Wine (white firmo) was OK, but for what it was very drinkable. Overall great Value. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)L`Altana, Barga -
Forced to eat here by the November shut down for holidays of many other local establishments, we were very pleasantly surprised. The service was very welcoming. The dining room very pleasant and the food excellent. The cook, Camilla Gianotti, is also the mural artist. The house wine from cantine mini of Montecarlo was very good. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Trattoria da Riccardo, Barga -
In the summer, eating out on the balcony is very pleasant. Hardly a view, but in the open. But that was then; and now it is Autumn. Inside the atmosphere is a bit dreary somehow. I cannot quite put my finger on it. But cloth napkins was a plus, something I appreciate. The fritto misto was lovely, as were the tortelli with ragu. House wine (bianco firmo) is very nice (€4 a half litre). But three dishes between two, plus wine, water and coffee was €33, which felt a bit steep. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Scacciaguai, Barga -
Our second visit and again we were delighted. Warm welcome, really nice dining room (we were inside this time because Autumn is arriving). Good table setting. Fish lasagne was delightful; as was Sushi to start. Steak with pistachio crust on rocket was novel but delicious. Pork fillet with pear and cheese sauce was also delicious. The only negative, our choice because we like to go local, was the white wine from Gallicano. Probably best avoided… 58 Euros including coffee. Really good value. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (1)Gelateria dei Neri, Florence -
Not one of the more famous names, and a bit off the tourist trail, but the best ice cream by a country mile. The cioccolata was just brilliant. Other flavours also amazing. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Il Ghibellini, Florence -
On the recommendation of our extremely helpful hotel reception, we gave this a try. It was well worth the short walk, even though our feet had covered a lot of ground in the day! The welcome was warm and the service attentive but not intrusive. We sat outside under the two giant umbrellas. No view of a church or ancient architecture, but pleasant enough. Pizza was well made and wholesome and so was the Insalata Beatrice. House wine (white) very drinkable and reasonable at 4.5 euros a half litre. In Florence this is exceptional value. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Zi Meo, Castelvecchio Pascoli -
After years of thinking this establishment had closed, we saw a light when passing yesterday and thought we would change our plans and give it a go. Not the best decision. The carpark being empty should have told us something... We were the only people there. The setting is delightful if a little `tired`. The welcome was warm - possibly because customers are so rare! We had a pizza and piece of veal (ie one course). Not the best but by no means poor. But it was very expensive for what it was. Euros 7.5 for the pizza, 9 for two very small pieces of veal, 3 for a basic salad, etc. With half a litre of house white (in itself not bad at all), and two coffees - Euros 32.50. That is about 50% over market rates... Now we see why the car park is empty. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Ristorante Pizzeria Il Gallo, Gallicano -
First impressions of the new management of what was Il Flamingo (they have moved down the road to what was Tre Castelli) were good. A few small changes to the outside dining area, for the better. A huge plate of tortelli al ragu was good, tortelli probably bought in rather than home made, but good nevertheless. Pizzas at 4.5 euros were OK, not the best. House white 6 euros a litre was quaffable, as they say. Staff did not seem to have much zip and zing, helpful enough, but not really any enthusiasm. Overall, as an outdoor summer pizzeria, worth a look and very reasonable. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Osteria al Ritrovo del Platano, Ponte di Campia -
Tried the new chef. Facilities and welcome just as before. Antipasto was huge and varied enough. Cheese crepe was inbcredibly cheesy and a bit doughy. Bisteccha di miaile turned out to be a mixed grill. Nothing exceptional. Maiaile con lardo was very nice in contrast, A well presented and sensible sized portion. House white was very pleasant enough but 10 euros is too much. - Tim

Placeholder only, because there are no pictures of this restaurant (0)Il Molin del Sassone, Fornaci di Barga -
There was a pleasant enough outdoor area, but the evening was not that warm, so we went in. The dining room was spacious and well appointed, paper cloths and napkins and chunky water glasses a bit out of keeping really. The welcome was warm, perhaps because we admitted that a friend of the waiter had recommended it. The food was good: antipasto varied and plentiful; ravioli delicate and correctly cooked. For mains, the bistecca di maiale was absolutely brilliant, soft aromatic and perfectly cooked; the pizza was nice and crispy; but not exceptional. House wine (white) at 8 euros was lovely but a bit pricey. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Fratelli Lucchesi, Barga -
Watch the kitchen at work on YouTube HERE - Admin

Placeholder only, because there are no pictures of this restaurant (0)Il Molin del Sassone, Fornaci di Barga -
Not yet tried this place, but on the recommendation of a local, we will give it a try next time. - Admin

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Scacciaguai, Barga -
Despite the two strong recommendations, it has taken us 2 years to try this relatively new restaurant in the centre of Barga. We were not disappointed. We sat on the small terrace at the back of the restaurant. There is another on the street. The cottage cheese and spinach appetizer, warm foccacia and sparkling aperitif were lovely. A light calametti and polpe soup (special of the day) was delightful. Miaile with pear, cheese and a balsamic sauce was perfect. Capelletti of mozzarella in a pancetta and cheese sauce was also very special. A pinot from Collio and two coffees rounded off a delightful meal, which for 53 Euros was also excellent value for money. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Osteria al Ritrovo del Platano, Ponte di Campia -
How many times have we passed this place and not stopped. Well, we did today and it was a pleasant surprise. Very agreeable dining room and warm welcome. Tortellini with ragu were delicious (a bit salty if I am being very critical). Pork fillet in 4 cheeses was delicious. Sformato verdure lovely, roast potatoes a bit soggy. House wine quite drinkable. 45 eruos for two all up - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Terrazza, Albiano Barga -
Twelve of us all ordering pizza at once stretched the four-pizza oven, but then authentic pizza doesn`t come in batches of 12. And it was authentic as ever. Worth going out of your way for, and we don`t have to, whoohoo! Still not venturing back to the house white but the pinot was lovely. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Cantina, Ghivizzano -
We were surprised by how few other diners there were for supper mid-week in August. Not at all like the previous year. Credit crunch? Nevertheless, the food and service were up to the normal good standard and we enjoyed a very pleasant meal outside. Tortelli ragu and pappardelle chingiale were brilliant starters, as was `fritto misto` for the secondo. House wine (white) light and crisp. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Il Flamingo, Gallicano -
We had great pizza, nice and thin, well cooked and generously filled and T-bones the way you only get in Italy. Washed down with a very respectable house white. Shame about the venue, but, as you will see, the owners are moving to better premises. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (1)Bar Roma, Ponte a Moriano -
It is easy to see why this is the truckers` favourite. The welcome is warn, yet the bar is air-conditioned. Good coffee and a wide selection of cakes/sandwiches. Outside seating. Finding this is going to be difficult with the new road trying to divert you at every turn, but persevere: it is worth it. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Cantina, Ghivizzano -
We re-discovered La Cantina this week, in the sense that we went for a weekday lunch and had the €10/head set menu, which is what we had done in its old location 10+ years ago and so marvelled at the value for money. There was plenty of variety in the menu - I think 5 starters and 5 mains and 3 sides. The pappardelle with squid as a starter was really delicious. House white was suitably dry and crisp. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Fratelli Lucchesi, Barga -
As ever a delight. Beautiful pastry and `valdostana`. Piping hot cappucini. Friendly service. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Terrazza, Albiano Barga -
Pizza on a Saturday. Fabbrizzio still makes the best pizza I have tasted. Such a shame that it is only available two days a week. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Mora, Ponte a Moriano -
Lunch on Friday, straight from the plane. For about the first time we simply wanted fuel rather than to `eat out`. It worked brilliantly. About the best start to a long weekend you could imagine. Somehow they knew we were just there to eat and move on so service was brisk but as always first class. Food was a delight as always. - Tim

Placeholder only, because there are no pictures of this restaurant (0)Sala Mascagni, Pisa -
Once again we were impressed by this little dining room in the airport. For €55, the two of us had two courses each a bottle of wine and coffee. The food was excellent and plentiful (more than we could eat really). When you think you might pay this to enter the club lounge in some airports, it has to be a bargain. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Pancino, Forte dei Marmi -
We found this place in the winter looking for lunch when pretty well everything else was closed. Penne al salmone had a rich salmony taste, but not not a sign of any actual salmon. Prosciutto in the antipasto was very soft and absolutely delicious. €46 for two courses, half litre of house wine and coffee. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (1)La Mocchia, Barga -
Perhaps I should have paid more heed to the references to karaoke in previous comments. In the event I managed to escape before the `entertainment` started, thank goodness. Ravioli with ragu was tasty and plentiful, but tepid. Pizza was good. House white was very drinkable. Tap water in a carafe was charged for! €30 for two reasonable. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Terrazza, Albiano Barga -
On a busy night, the place was full and the service was a bit slow as a result, but as ever the food was wholesome and plentiful; the welcome warm; and the bill was €30. Pizza nostromo (tonno e cipolle) was as crisp and thin as ever (well done, Fabrizio). - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)Il Flamingo, Gallicano -
Ravioli and ragu was delicious, as was pizza (tonno e cipolle). House white very drinkable. All up €30 for two - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Mora, Ponte a Moriano -
On this lunch-time visit we had the fish menu degustation. It was a true delight. Everything cooked to perfection and a torrent of delicate flavours. Service was, as ever, super-efficient, by which I mean just right - neither rushed nor slow - perfectly orchestrated. A Buonamico white rounded it all off nicely. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (1)Il Ponte di Ceserana, Ceserana -
Antipasto was not offered, which is normal without a reservation. Tortelli of various meats with a ragu and bechamel sauce were delightful. As were mushroom tortelli with a light pesto sauce. Neither piping hot, which was disappointing. Two meat dishes for mains with vegetables, water, a bottle of wine and coffee for 38 euros is amazing value. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Cantina, Ghivizzano -
A gentle Sunday lunch. Too hot to sit outside, but the air-conditioning inside was great. Antipasto misto was a feast as usual. Tortellini al ragu was delicious but not quite piping hot. Orate was succulent, even if the `at your table` filleting left a few bones. House white was smooth and crisp, but lively, as they say (slightly frizzante). Service attentive but not intrusive, as always. Not quite at the top of their game this time. €54 plus tip. - Tim

Placeholder only, because there are no pictures of this restaurant (0)Ristorante il Nuraghe, Pisa -
We have eaten here only once, en-route to the airport and a little rushed. But the local clientele (always a good sign), atmosphere, friendliness and quality of food were excellent. Will definitely try again when we are passing. - Tim

Pictures of this restaurant (2)La Mora, Ponte a Moriano -
This is a long-term favourite of ours. The antipasto della casa is a must. Great wine cellar and sympathetic somelier. - Tim

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